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Dec 19 08 6:23 PM

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I'm a firm believer in good looking terrain.

Here are some photo's from some of our recent games as recorded by Jeff Knudsen

http://www.flickr.com/photos/war_artisan/sets/72157607074658120/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/war_artisan/sets/72157606660131865/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/war_artisan/sets/72157606660482627/

Jeff gave a description of how to build the table:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/war_artisan/sets/72157606657233854/

Now I've done the description of how to do the cloth:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/36331979@N00/sets/72157610259987470/

Trying to anticipate your questions;

The "Latex" is latex caulking, i.e., DAP or Mono etc.

The latex comes in various colors. I used tan but and a cream base. There are a couple of browns and a dark green one too.

I didn't seal the flock. The idea is that if the flock wears thin, you'll still have a brown earth color underneath.

If you don't treat the canvas with gesso it is easy to roll and fold. The polyurethane on the rivers does not crack. You can as an alternative, cover the rivers in clear latex.

Well I used a cheap canvas from the home decorating store of the type used by painters to protect the floor from drips. It is course like a thin sail cloth.

The size used was 2.70m x 1.60m (8'9" x 5'3")

You can go up to 3.5m x 2.5m (11'9" x 8'3")

If you wanted a finer canvas try the fine arts stores, they carry it for artists, but you might have problems getting something more that about 2m wide.

The 2.70m x 1.60m (8'9" x 5'3") cloth weighs less than 4lbs and folds up into a pillow-size bundle which is easily carried and stored. Folding sometimes causes creases which will go away if the cloth is left hanging overnight, or stretched out on the table for awhile. If the cloth is rolled up instead this in never an issue, but a 6' long roll of canvas is somewhat less convenient to store or carry. (I've never found the creases to be much of a problem, and I usually store my cloths by folding them up and [Kate Moss]ing them in the back of a closet, occasionally with boxes of books or miniatures thrown on top.)

As for durability; the turf wears thin in spots over the years/miles, but it only enhances the natural look of the terrain by letting the earth-toned latex underneath show. Occasionally I'll patch a thin spot by spreading a little latex over the top and throwing some contrasting (either in color, coarseness, or both) turf, not so much because it's necessary as because it looks more natural to have variations in the turf. Actually, they look better as time goes on.

Cloths would allow you to do more variants – desert, European landscape, urban, beach etc.

To give you some idea of cost, I estimate that it cost me the follow;

Cloth $10 USD
9 tubes of latex $40 USD
3 large containers of flock (used about 1/2) $30 USD
Latex cleaner $3 USD
Bushes and ballast (plenty left over) $10 USD

I do find that the certain types item are not available in the US, for example cork-tiles. The items used in this technique should be readily available around the world.

Hope this helps,

Elliott
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Cacadores

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Posts: 10,218 Field Marshal Cacs

#1 [url]

Jan 10 09 1:11 AM

Hello there,
That 1813 game looks good, and very professional looking shots of the construction. Thanks for putting the link up.

What made Jeff build the table - as opposed to putting a board on top of an existing table?

The cloth looks very good: it's certainly a space-saving idea and looks just as good as flocking hardboards. Have you got any shots with hills and so on?

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#2 [url]

Jan 12 09 5:25 PM

Jeff, as far as I know, is not a memebr of this list, so I'll answer for my friend.

The appartment (flat) that he lives in is rather small and so it's a space issue. The component parts break down into a smaller space.

Hills are easy. You use either towels or the capok for stuffing toys and place under the cloth. The cloth is then pinned down - hence the insulation block about 2" thich which is easy to take a 1 1/4" pin. The keeps the cloth light and stops wrinkling.

Here's some examples with hills clearly shown:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/war_artisan/sets/72157606735918813/

With light 10mm figures the use of capok is not an issue and they don't distort the hills.

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Cacadores

Brig. General

Posts: 10,218 Field Marshal Cacs

#3 [url]

Jan 12 09 11:27 PM

Ah huh. It's quite a neat visual effect you get there. Can you stand trees on the hills too? Mind you, you can get pin trees too I guess.

Nice one

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#4 [url]

Jan 20 09 7:14 PM

Cacadores wrote:
Ah huh. It's quite a neat visual effect you get there. Can you stand trees on the hills too? Mind you, you can get pin trees too I guess.

Nice one


Trees just stand on metal washers:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/36331979@N00/sets/72157612767211602/

The lichen covers up some of the stands.

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